The Ocean Is Everything
When people ask me about how I came to be who I am, or what inspired me as a kid, I usually tell them about the North Shore of Oahu.
First, though, I talk about my mom.
She surfs every day. Always has. When I was growing up, she was on the water any chance she got. And to this day, when she’s not working or surfing, my mom is at the skatepark. She loves skating almost as much as she loves surfing.
I remember these times when I was super young, like eight or so, and the waves were pretty big … and I was a little bit scared to go out on my board. My mom wouldn’t make me go, or pressure me, or anything like that. She’d just look at me and kind of shrug her shoulders and say, “O.K., well I’m going out.”
It was like … O.K., bye.
And I’d just kind of look at her like, Wait … what? You’re going out?
This is at Pipeline, mind you, right in front of our house on the beach on the North Shore. There are really big waves in the winter. Serious stuff. And, this is my mom.
Just ready to paddle out on her longboard and have fun and see what happens.
I could’ve stayed back, for sure.
But what was I gonna do … sit around on the beach and watch my mom surf? No way.
So I’d follow her out into the ocean.
And every single time I did that, I’d have so much fun. I never regretted it.
So, yeah, that’s my first inspiration. Definitely. My mom. She’s classic.
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Shared from: The Player Tribune